furniture

401K views · 7.6K reactions | Martha Washington sewing table flip!🤎 | Paint or Stain?? One day with Martha Washington Sewing Table!😍 | By ReLove ReStore | Facebook

Can you believe this was free?? How much should I sell it for?

Oxalic Acid: A Very Useful Bleach | Popular Woodworking

Back On The Horse

Absolutely gorgeous DIY

I found this solid wood dresser in the TRASH!!!! Easy Solid Wood Furniture Flip Tutorial

Did you know you can use a green paint wash to cancel out the red/orange tones in wood!?😱

174K views · 26K reactions | This thrifted table was a labor of love, I’m happy to bring it back to its full potential! ❤️✨#ThriftedVsStyled #ThriftedHome #thriftedfinds #diy #thrifted | Caroline Ecker-Jason | Caroline Ecker-Jason · Original audio

Antique Jacobean Buffet Refinish. Weathered Blonde Oak! | This antique piece had previously been refinished. I wanted to push it further though to see how light I could get it! Follow along on this step by step... | By Flip2Thrive | Like pieces of furniture that look like they should be in a rustic provincial farmhouse somewhere then stick around because this is the furniture flip for you. I bought this antique buffet on Facebook Marketplace for sixty dollars. Structually it was sound aesthetically not so much. This piece had previously been restored from its deeper dark tone up to this classic golden oak tone but I wanted to push it even further to see if I could get more of a light weathered oak look throughout the piece. My first was to remove the handles followed by the doors and hinges. I then moved on to carbide scraping because I wanted to see if that dark stain that was stuck in the grain was consistent throughout the piece. What I found from working on oak in the past is that it has a very deep pore and it loves to absorb stain and in this case that stain was dark but it was creating beautiful definition in the grain. You could really see it popping through once that orange was off. So instead of working against it a trying to remove it all completely I wanted to see if I could use it as a feature for my end result. This was all looking really great until I got to the drawer fronts and found that the original handles not the brass ones that were currently on it but the original handles had left a huge deep circle where they'd been rotating over time. I was still hopeful at this point though so I did go around and clean everything down with crud cutter followed by some hot water just to make sure I didn't have any residue that I would be down into the timber and then went over everything with 120 grit. I always like to start with one hundred and twenty grit sandpaper to see if that will remove the finish which it did in this case. However you could use an 80 grit sandpaper if you had some deep scratches. You just need to make sure that you do come up slowly through the grains so that you'll eliminate any swirly whirlies that you got from that 80 grit sandpaper. I did give the little barley twist legs a quick hand sand to see if the finish would come off easily and it did not. It would not budge in the grooves. It was fine coming around from the exterior of the swirl but the interior was not budging. This was the defining moment of whether I should strip this piece or not. These rings did not budge and I ended up having to sand down any of that definition that was created from the dark stain. If I get into a situation where I have to use a paint stripper I will use polypaint stripper. It's that little tin. You can get it from Bunnings in Australia and a very fast acting. However it is very harsh so make sure you are wearing eye protection some gloves and a respirator because if this stuff gets on you it really burns. I do love it though because you aren't stripping for hours. You don't have to wrap it in plastic. You don't have to leave it overnight and you just come back with hot soapy water to scrub it off. If you want to see this process in a little bit more detail though I made a dedicated video to my paint stripping process and you can find that in my beginners tip playlist. Once the legs were done it was time to get a uniform coat across the entire piece really making sure to work the product into the grain. So I was working the brush with the grain I was going against the grain and trying to push as much down into those pores as I could. When you are trying to remove stain out of the grain like this it's very important to use a firm bristle brush. You could even use a steel wire brush if you wanted to but you all work with the grain so that each of the little bristles goes into the grain and lifts the product out. Make sure that you're giving everything a really thorough scrub down because a lot of the product that is on there will come off with just scrubbing and hot water. The most efficient way I've found to get all of the suds off is to just use my hose and I stand by this. This is a solid piece of timber furniture and it can get wet. However you do want to make sure that you're getting most of the water off the P So you can see here I am dumping the water and then I go around with a towel to towel dry it so it's only damp and then I put it in front of the fan and this is because if you leave moisture just sitting on the surface of the timber it can actually split later on. I let the piece dry for twenty-four hours before coming back to do my sanding. Now I worked up from 120 grit sandpaper to 150, then I went to 180 and then 240 to prepare for my paint wash. Now you can see that horrendous contact paper that is on those shelves. I actually removed that using my hairdryer. I just forgot to film it. But what you need to do is soften the glue. If you've got contact paper that sticks like that you use the heat gun or a hair dryer. Soften up the glue and you should be able to remove it with ease. I was pleasantly surprised to find nothing underneath. I have no idea why that contact paper was put in there but there was no stains, no marks on these shelves. They just needed to be sanded. Once I had removed all of the dust it was time to move onto my paintwash. Now for this paint wash I wanted to achieve a raw timber look. I wanted the tone of the timber to be what it is when it's freshly sanded. And this can be quite a tricky thing to do because the minute that you put a polyurethane or a wax onto raw timber normally it goes very warm depending obviously on what timber. In this case the oak would have gone orange if I had of just gone ahead and put a wax or a polyurethane on it. So I'm going counteract that now with a paint wash. It took me many years and a lot of trial and error to work out exactly how to apply a paintwash to achieve a raw timber finish. And with that in mind I created a raw timber furniture flipping guide which you can find through the link in my bio which will take you through step by step exactly what to do in order to achieve these beautiful natural finishes. My guide will leave you feeling confident to achieve these raw timber finishes on your own. However I did go through as a bonus and and in all of my custom colour combinations and ratios as well so you know exactly what paints I am using in my videos. Now for this piece I did three applications of my paintwash colour I sanded in between each coat after drying with my hair dryer. Now it's essential that you sand in between each of your coats of paintwash because it does tend to raise the grain a little bit. That's those little fuzzy fibres that you see here. So to get everything smooth again you just hit it with 400 grit sandpaper. Once my paint wash was dry it was time to seal my piece and for that I chose Fitty's Supreme Wax Polish in light. This wax has a fast dry time goes on matte but can be buffed out to a high sheen level and comes in a range of colours including a liming wax. You can see here that I am applying with a brush to really work it into that oak grain. However you can apply it with just a cloth and if you're wanting to buff it out you can do this within a couple of minutes because it dries so fast. I applied two coats on the top of the piece to get that high sheen level and I applied one coat on the body of the piece. My final step was to install some new handles and get the doors back on. And guys this is the end result. It was nine hours of hands on work time in total. But it was all worth it. I think it is soft. It's neutral. The tone's more uniform throughout. You can still see that beautiful oak grain shining through. I love the subtle sheen from the wax finish. And the aged brass handles just give it a really charming rustic sort of I would love to know what you guys think in the comments. Antique furniture lovers be kind. But guys is it a nail or is it a fail?